You can get a cat from many sources including the newspaper classifieds, local rescues and animal shelters and breeders. The most important thing is that you are willing to make the emotional and financial commitment to the cat for its entire life, which can be as long as 18-20 years.
Even if you get your cat from a, "Free to a good home," ad, there is no such thing as a free pet. Cats need, at least, a yearly visit to be examined by a veterinarian. There are different points of view as to which shots a cat, especially an indoor only cat needs, but your cat will need, at minimum, a rabies shot as that is required by law. It is important to keep in mind that even if you don't plan to let your cat outside, he or she might get out by accident and be exposed to illness, so complete vaccination is recommended.
If you are not planning to breed your cat you should definitely get him neutered. This will save money, headaches and possibly heart break in the end. Unaltered pets tend to roam and are subject to the dangers of the elements, other animals, traffic fatalities and unethical people. Females can die due to complications during the birthing process and both males and females are less likely to develop certain kinds of cancer when altered. Unaltered pets also display behaviors most people find distressing as well. Both males and females will spray to mark territory if left intact. Contrary to popular belief, neutered males rarely spray.
It is important to realize that, just like us, cats can have medical emergencies or may develop long term, but not life threatening illnesses, such as diabetes. You need to plan in advance financially to cover these unexpected expenses.
Despite their reputation for being "independent" or "aloof", cats really do need as much love and attention as any other animal companion. The fact that they can take care of themselves in ways a dog or other pet can't shouldn't be a license to leave them alone with extra litter boxes and big bowls of food and water for extended periods of time. You need to consider who will visit your kitty while you are gone. You can ask a friend or hire a professional pet sitter. The person who comes to visit the cat should clean the box, refresh the food and water and spend sometime petting and or playing with your cat. You can locate a good pet sitter in several ways. Most veterinary office have at least one or two sitters they refer people to, sometimes even one of the veterinary technicians from their own office. Two professional organizations maintain databases of their members NAPPS (National Association of Professional Pet Sitters) and PSI (Pet Sitters International). Finally, you will need to take your feline friend into consideration when you are looking for housing. Local humane organizations often have listings of pet friendly housing. The Dane County Humane Society maintains such a list.
| What supplies do I need to get before I get a cat? |
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Below is a list of items you need at a minimum. If you're like most pet owners you will probably find many other things your cat "has" to have. :)
- A nice big, deep litter box without a hood. Rubbermaid makes a nice one with really high sides, but you can also use a plastic storage tote. Storage boxes come in all shapes and sizes, but there are a couple of things to look for. Look for one with high sides. Many cats, both male and female urinate horizontally rather than down. It's a little like spraying, but they don't do it out of the box. They can, however, "miss." In this scenario the cat's body is in the box, but they miss the box due to overshooting. Most cats can hop right in and out of a storage box, but if your cat isn't agile and you think it will be difficult for him you can cut a hole in the front. A second thing to look for is a box with as few ridges on the bottom as possible. It can take some looking, but there are storage boxes out there with almost perfectly flat bottoms. The reason you want a flat bottom is because ridges make it harder to clean the box properly.
- Good clumping litter. Clumping litter is generally softer on the paws, which cats like, and has the advantage of actually removing the urine from the box altogether which cuts down on smell. You can get all sorts of litter, some biodegradable, but you have to experiment to see what works with your cats. Some litters work with one cat and not another. A cat might prefer one texture over another and the composition of the urine determines which litter clumps best for a certain cat. You may get lucky and have a cat whose urine clumps nicely with a less expensive brand, but you kind of get what you pay for and if the clumps break up that sort of defeats the purpose of clumping litter (you still end up with smelly urine left in the box). An airtight container you can line with a plastic bag and deposit the waste into is nice to have as well.
- Glass, smooth ceramic or stainless steel dishes. You can clean glass, ceramic or stainless steel dishes easily (vinegar removes lime from water dishes), whereas plastic develops little micro abrasions over time, which bacteria hide in and contaminate the food and water.
- Brushes, combs, grooming tools, shampoos. Most cats are low maintenance, not requiring more than a weekly brushing, but if you get a long haired cat there can be more involved. If you get a kitten, no matter what the fur length, get it used to being bathed so that if it is really necessary later in life they aren't traumatized by it. Once or twice a year is more than enough. You should help the kitten become accustomed to being brushed; give it lots of treats and petting during the process. If a long haired cat gets matted you should shave the mats off. Cutting them with scissors pulls on the skin and hurts.
- Bedding. Actually, the world is a kitty's bed so special beds, while thoroughly appreciated, aren't really necessary. They do help corral the cat hair, however. Given the choice between laying on the floor and laying on a piece of paper on the floor the cat will always choose the piece of paper. Think about how much more inviting a fluffy bed is. Put that on your couch or bed and you can bet kitty will be drawn to it.
- TOYS!!!!!!! You don't have to spend a fortune as most cats love the plastic rings from milk containers, pens and pencils and wadded up balls of paper, but there are some cool toys out there. Some goodies include: sparkle (glitter) balls; mylar balls, the Da Bird wand toy; the Cat Charmer; and the Cat Dancer. Be careful with string as a lot of cats will eat it and it can block their intestines.
| Why did my cat stop using the litter box? |
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The first thing you need to do when a cat stops using his or her litter box is to get complete physical, including a urinalysis, done to check for a medical cause for the problem. The most common medical reasons for lapses in litter box habits are urinary tract infections and crystals in the urine. Both can be extremely painful and a cat with either condition will start to associate the litter box with their pain. They will go in other places trying to find a location where it doesn't hurt to urinate. It is extremely important to catch such a physical problem early and treat it right away in order to avoid a long lasting aversion to the litter box.
If the cat persists in avoiding the box after treatment it may be necessary to "re-train" the cat so that he or she learns that it is once more safe to use the box. Closing the cat in a small, easy to clean area such as a bathroom or mudroom with a clean, uncovered litter box filled with soft, sandy litter will encourage the kitty to use the box. It is important to keep the box well scooped at all times (even under normal circumstances). After the course of a week good habits are usually re-established. If there are relapses, start over and give him or her more time in the smaller area. This should not be seen as a punishment of the cat who should have toys, fresh food and water and plenty of visitors during his or her confinement.
If there is no apparent physical reason for your feline friend to be avoiding the litter box, you must put on your thinking cap and try to figure out what else could have caused this. The first thing to look at is the litter box itself. Is it scooped daily? Does it have a cover? Most cats don't like covers - it's like using a port-a-potty. What kind of litter is in it? Fine, sandy litter is softer on paws and more like the natural sandy substrate their ancestors in ancient Egypt used. Does the litter have a scent? Cats are extremely sensitive to smell and strong odors, especially mixed with urine, can be particularly offensive. Where is the litter box located? It should be out of the line of direct traffic, but not buried in the back of a storage area. Try to avoid placing boxes near noisy appliances like washing machines and dryers. Has anything happened near the litter box that might have scared the kitty? If so, you might have to move the boxes or at least provide an alternative until he or she decides it's safe to use the boxes in the original location. Are there enough boxes? Experts recommend one box per cat plus one more (so 2 for one cat 3 for two cats, etc). How far does your cat have to go to get to the box? There should be at least one box on each floor of the house.
A very good source of information is the Cats International web site.
While dogs have been deemed "man's best friend" there are a few things that you should consider before adding one to your family. This information will hopefully help you with the preparation of getting a dog, whether it be puppy or adult, and provide a long, healthy relationship between you and your pet. This is no substitute for an actual consultation with a veterinarian. Pet owners are very perceptive and if you have the feeling there is something wrong, you are probably correct. You should never hesitate to consult your veterinarian if you have any concerns at all.
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